Finishing the cycling part of our trip, we drove to Essaouira with a lunch stop at a desert oasis, La Pause. A green spot in the desert, this oasis is fed by the waters running off the mountains. Camels roamed loose to nibble on trees. We escaped the relentless desert sun under tents perched on red Berber rugs, with La Pause’s Turkish Kangal pups as company. The dogs worked the nightshift protecting livestock from predators and one of them happily lounged with us in the midday heat. Our beef and vegetable tagine, fresh bread and iced mint tea was fabulous.